Half day sightseeing around UNESCO Bhaktapur / Kathmandu where your guide will escort you on a tour of Buddhist and Hindu temples and shrines reflecting ancient local traditions. There is time to explore the city’s many places of interest on your own or take a rest while trekking permits are finalised. In the evening sample a delicious traditional Nepali dinner. Overnight in Kathmandu.

An early departure from Kathmandu travelling by road via the Prithvi highway After a few hours before Malekhu we turn north taking the single track road for Dhading Besi and beyond to Arughat- the last hour or so on a dusty section. Because of the roughness of this road we recommend a private 4WD rather than local bus.

Most of this stage is easy walking along a flat road while scenery of rice fields, waterfalls and greenery unfolds as you pass through villages along the way. Arkhet Bazar (620m) is interesting for its old main bazaar road and the gushing Arkhet Khola where the local children bathe. (3 – 4 hrs)

Soon after leaving Soti Khola the trail enters into a rougher part of the Budhi Gandaki, and goes up and down and with numerous rocky parts. We’ll see larger waterfalls cascading down the opposite side of the valley. Some parts of the trail are particularly narrow or we must cross landslides requiring extra care, especially when mule supply convoys are on the trail. Tropical vegetation adds its charm, together with the thrilling suspension bridges that are regular attraction on this trek. Machekhola (“fish river”) is a pleasant village built on the slopes of the hill. (5-6 hrs.)

We continue trekking up and down the valley walls along the western side of the Budhi Gandaki until reaching Tatopani, a tiny village of a few houses on the narrow trail between the gushing Budhi Gandaki and a tremendous cliff. As we pass Doban and approach Jagat the valley opens up into a broad expanse with plenty of room to walk along the river bed in most seasons. Jagat is a very picturesque Gurung village with slate-paved streets. We’ll stop at the Manaslu Conservation Area Project (MCAP) Office here to register our trekking permits, and will be able to learn about MCAP activities in the region. (6 hrs)

The trail from Jagat descends to the pleasant village of Salleri. It also has a slate paved main street and friendly villagers. About 2 and half hours from Jagat you reach Sirdibas (1430m), a compact village with nice stone houses and slate roofs. We then pass the small village of Ghote Khola before crossing the Budhi Gandaki on one of the longest suspension bridges of this trek, followed by a steep climb to Philim.

Above Philim the sheer scale and the feeling of being truly amongst the mighty Himalaya is evident at every turn. We cross the Budhi Gandaki yet again, the trail hugging the cliff-side, up and over ridge backs, as we gaze across the valley at cascading waterfalls.  Within two hours the trail splits, with one route heading northwest up the Manaslu Circuit towards the Larkye La pass, and our route heading northeast along the Syar river toward the Tsum Valley. After a steep climb through pine forest the trail levels out and we reach the Lokpa where there is a small teahouse on the main trail a few hundred meters below the village. (5 hrs)

Although we will only gain a few hundred meters altitude overall today it will be up and down all the way along the steep valley walls above the Syar river. We start by descending down to the river, then climb steeply and staying high above the river for a long stretch  before returning to cross an old bridge to the north side. From here it’s a steady climb up to Chumling, surrounded by open meadows and planted fields that contrast starkly with the deep forest on the opposite side of the valley. We will overnight at the spacious teahouse here with splendid views. Across the valley we can spot the trail leading through Ripchet, an alternate route from Lok Pa. (4 hrs).

After an easy start today along a gentle downward trail we’ll cross the river again. From here it’s mostly straight up for a few hours, first through a mix of pine and deciduous forest, then opening up to arid terrain of the high plateau with broad meadows and squat shrubbery. As we crest the plateau about 15 minutes before reaching Chukkum Paro the Tsum Valley opens up and we see the full breadth and depth of this geological wonder.

When we reach Chukkum village you will be fully enveloped in the Tibetan Buddhist culture of the indigenous “Tsumbos”. Small gompas dot the outskirts of the village where solidly built slate-roofed houses are packed closely together, like herds of yaks shielding themselves against harsh winter weather. During the trekking season though you can expect warm, sunny days with chilly evenings. (4 hrs).

It’s an easy hike along well-constructed trailsand through  primitive yet quite neat little villages toward the larger villages of Chule and Nile, which face weach other on opposite sides of the Syar river at the base of the comma-shaped, steep valley leading up to Mu Gompa. A huge headwall with an icy waterfall dominates the background of Chule. About 100 meters above the village looms a 700 year old Buddhist monastery that we can visit before or after crossing the river to Nile where we will stay in a comfortable and hospitable local home. This will be a relatively easy day with lots of time in the afternoon for relaxation and exploration. (4 hrs)

We will start the trek early alongside the Syar river leading up the valley to Mu Gompa. The trail steepens sharply as we approach the Gompa after an hour or two of hiking. We will still be engulfed in the shadows of the deep valley but will see the monastery above us lit up brightly as the sun’s rays spill unfettered down another high valley to the east, as through a window. There will be plenty of time to explore the monastery complex and its gompa. The views looking back down the valley toward Ganesh Himal are spectacular, with the stark valley terrain serving as a perfect backdrop for the sparkling whiteness of the snow-capped peaks surrounding us. Depending on our trek pace and group interests it may also be possible to explore other gompas and vistas in the mountains surrounding Mu Gompa. There are overnight accommodations at Mu Gompa where we will have the option of staying, or return to Nile (one and a half hours away) for the night. (5 hrs)

As we start to make our way down the valley you will have a different mountain views, dominated by the broad face of Ganesh Himal. You should also have a fresh and well-informed perspective on the region and its culture as you revisit the villages and people along the route home. Along the way we will stop at Ranchen Gompa, a sprawling nunnery that hosts hundreds of Buddhist aspirants from around the world each year.

As we approach Chumling the terrain will once again be transformed, this time from arid high plains to verdant forests.

We descend rapidly from the Tsum Valley today, although not without some challenging ascents and descents on the valley walls, before reaching Lok Pa where we will have lunch. From Lok Pa, we soon meet the Budhi Gandaki river again as we make our way back to Phillim. At the juncture of the Syar and Budhi Ghandaki below Lok Pa the trail splits off to the Manaslu Circuit route heading northwest. This is where the combined Manaslu/Tsum trek route diverges, while we continue south. Our overnight accommodations at the Phillim guest house will offer significantly more comfort and services than we’ve had access to up in the Tsum Valley. From here to Arughat we will be staying again in guest houses rather than homestays.

Although there will still be some ups and down as we pick our way over landslides and narrow valley trails on both sides of the river, the going will be much easier from here on. Khorlabesi is a friendly little village with the distinction of having very good “local coffee”. (5 hrs)

We continue our return along the downward slope of the Budhi Ghandaki. Before reaching Lapubesi we again reach a suspension bridge that we crossed on the way up the valley. Coming from this direction we will see several magnificent, interconnected waterfalls cascading down the in front of us. At our teahouse accommodations in Lapubesi we can enjoy beautiful vistas over the river and across the high valley. (4 hrs)

After breakfast and depending on the time of your departure flight you can enjoy shopping or sightseeing in Kathmandu before transfer to the international airport.